Culture Vulture
Wagyu Beef

Wagyu (literally Japanese cow) refers to several breeds of cattle genetically predisposed to intense marbling and to producing a high percentage of oleaginous unsaturated fat. The meat from wagyu cattle is known worldwide for its marbling characteristics, increased eating quality through a naturally enhanced flavor, tenderness and juiciness, and a high market value. In several areas of Japan, beef is shipped with area names. Some examples are Kobe, Mishima, Matsusaka, Ōmi, and Sanda beef. Highly prized for their rich flavor, these cattle produce arguably the finest beef in the world. These different breeds produce beef that range from expensive (by any measure) to extremely expensive (about US$50 per 150 grams of filet steak sold retail in Japan). Wagyu cattle’s genetic predisposition yields a beef that contains a higher percentage of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids than typical beef. The increased marbling also improves the ratio of monounsaturated fats to saturated fats.
   By order of the Shogun, the cattle herd in Japan was closed and eating meat from any four-legged animal was prohibited from 1635 to 1838. Because of Japan’s rugged terrain and isolated areas, different breeding and feeding techniques were used such as massaging or adding beer or sake to their feeding regimen. It is suggested that this was done to aid in digestion and induce hunger during humid seasons, but it appears to have no effect on the meat’s flavor. Massaging may have been introduced to prevent muscle cramping on small farms in Japan where the animals did not have sufficient room to use their muscles. There are four major breeds of wagyu. Kumamoto Prefecture is famous for its red wagyu cattle. The more famous black variety has its origins in Kobe.
   In the United States, Japanese Wagyu cattle were bred with Angus cattle to create a crossbred animal that would be more able to survive the U.S. climate and ranching methods. The meat of this crossbreed was more marketable to the typical American buyer, for whom the meat of the wagyu cow is “too white”. The meat of the crossbreed provides the balance of marbling and red meat desired by them. This crossbreed has been named American Style Kobe Beef. Designed to mimic the diet that Japanese cattle were receiving, Wagyu cattle in the United States are fed a mixture of corn, alfalfa, barley and wheat straw.